Kungsleden Hemavan - Ammarnäs
Day minus 3 to day minus 1
Day minus 3
I am at home, it is 2 a.m. and I awake suddenly. I forgot
to pack the shovel. The shovel is essential for a ski tour. Not
to think of sleep any more. Should I get up in the middle of
the night ? But I know that this is simply a symptom of stress
disease. What else did I forget ? I must have slept again, as
now 3.30 a.m. and the radio awakes us. Who had the idea to start
a vacation at this time, in complete darkness ? We have to get
up. It is 4.30 a.m.now, and the taxi to the airport arrives.
No trains at that time. Sunrise at 7.30 a.m., and the Lufthansa
B 737 to Stockholm takes off. Two hours later we are in Stockholm.
We move our luggage to the Inland Terminal. A Fokker 50 of Skyways
awaits us. Check in and boarding is one procedure. "The
plane is fully booked, and ski transport depends on available
space. If we don't have the capacity, we will send the skis with
the next plane". But every second passenger has skis ? And
there are only two planes per week ?
Day minus two
We mostly travel with little cash and get money at a local banking machine, but Hemavan has neither a bank nor a machine. We decide to take the skibus to Tärnaby and look around in this slightly bigger village. We get cash in the bank there and visit the Tourist Info. We read in a folder that the stugvärds will normally arrive around the 15th of March. If that would be true, we cannot get provisions in the cabins. The Länstrafiken bus drivers are on strike, and the Ski bus returns not before late afternoon, so we spend 300 SEK for a taxi Tärnaby - Hemavan, back to our hotel. Who can give reliable information about the cabins ? We call the STF Vandrarhem in Ammarnäs. This year, the stugvärds are one week earlier, they say, and they are sure about that.
Day minus one
We have slept a lot and are a bit familiar to the area. We
put on the skis and try the first few kilometers of the tour.
An ascent of 350 m leads to the upper end of the Hemavan downhill
slopes. It is cold, about -11 C, and strong wind up here. Carola
advises me to take all my pictures today, so that we would save
this time tomorrow. It is not easy to get up here, the snow is
hardened by wind and sun. As soon as we reach the highland, the
wind is close to a storm. We cross several downhill slopes and
reach the highest point with a nice view on the Umeälven
and the valley.